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    首頁 / 新聞 / 正文

    奇怪!長沙人為何辣么熱愛那碗辣椒炒肉?

    mNMjWFstf

    吳歌原創/吳說餐飲

    飛機從無錫到長沙,只有一小時多點。走出機艙,迎面而來的是一個熱氣蒸騰的城市。長沙與無錫一樣,都開始進入梅雨季。

    此去長沙,還是為了美食,說好聽點,是為了品味長沙的美食文化。關注美食原來是我的愛好,現在居然成了一項工作。知道我很“吃貨”的朋友提醒說:必須去吃一下辣椒炒肉,不吃辣椒炒肉就不懂湖南滋味。

    長沙坡子街夜景

    上一次來長沙,是深秋季節,住在岳麓山下的一所大學里,每一天都是爽爽的。這一次住到了馬王堆,我在微信里一說,不少朋友就想起了那個名震天下的考古發掘,如今的馬王堆屬于長沙市芙蓉區,早已是人口密集的居民區。酒店的附近,是一個特別龐大的安置小區,從窗口俯瞰,應該住有二三十萬人口。傍晚下去走一圈,滿眼都是小吃美食餐飲店,這兒的住宅都是高層,底層每一幢都開滿了各種小店,以吃為主。而且,特別多的是湘菜店,大小不一,一律油香味辣椒味濃濃,惹得我噴嚏連連:辣啊,香啊,受不了啊!

    湘菜是長沙人的最愛,確實。在一幢樓下看見開了八家餐飲店,并排著緊挨的,六家賣湘菜,一家火鍋,一家小龍蝦。在北京上海廣東開得風風火火的火鍋,在長沙似乎并不太走紅,那些在外地熱火的小龍坎、蜀九香、大龍燚什么的,似乎并不讓長沙人太心動。長沙最多的仍是湘菜館。我記得,在江南許多城市里,川菜館和麻辣火鍋店的數量早已超過當地本幫菜館了。

    剁椒魚頭是湘菜館的招牌

    本以為湘菜的招牌就是剁椒魚頭,其實不然,小炒肉才是!湖南人說的小炒肉,就是辣椒炒肉,把瘦肉切成肉絲或者肉片,肥肉單切,烹飪時先爆炒肥肉至出油,再爆炒肉絲或肉片——肉絲或肉片事先要用生抽和料酒腌制十幾分鐘,而后加入辣椒煸炒。長沙朋友說,肥肉爆炒是必須的,缺少了爆炒出來的豬油,辣椒炒肉不會好吃。辣椒也是特別重要,辣椒品質的差別,會影響到這道菜的品質。

    辣椒炒肉的烹飪不需要太長時間,出鍋時那個香味喲,直往人鼻子里沖,豬油的香、辣椒的香、肉片的香,混合在一起,熱烈而銳利,勾得人每一個毛孔都充滿了大口去吃的欲望。如用江南人的味感去評判,辣椒炒肉一般略咸,但非常鮮,是一種熱辣辣的鮮,令人食欲倍增,因此特別下飯。而下飯就是湖南小炒肉的最大特點。

    在長沙辣椒炒肉比剁椒魚頭更火


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